NOTE: These are 2018 rules. Drivers and builders should wait until the 2019 schedule and rules have been announced before building for 2019 shows.
(1) SAFETY is our number one rule! If we aren’t satisfied with any safety related issues, you will be given the option to fix the problem, or load it back up. For all questions call: Mike Brown: 217-883-1204, or Josh Hull: 217-248-0860
(2) OFFICIALS HAVE THE FINAL SAY. TO THEIR DISCRETION, OFFICIALS CAN DISQUALIFY A CAR AT ANY TIME. ANYONE NOT COMPLYING WITH THESE RULES, OR NOT BEHAVING LIKE A RATIONAL ADULT WILL BE ESCORTED FROM THE EVENT, AND POSSIBLY BANNED FROM ALL FUTURE MIKE BROWN PROMOTIONS EVENTS! (Our goal is to keep this as a family friendly event. Remember that kids and future drivers look up to all of you!)
(3) All drivers MUST be 18-years-old with valid driver’s license. Drivers 16 and 17-year-olds MUST have parental consent & at least one parent or legal guardian present at sign-in.
(4) All cages are not only permitted, BUT ARE REQUIRED to protect you as much as possible. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO RUN if we are not satisfied with your safety precautions/cages. Halos aren’t mandatory, BUT ARE STRONGLY RECOMMENDED, but can’t exceed safety cage rules. This includes working seatbelts/harnesses.
(5) Both front doors can be skinned with up to 3/16″ from seam to seam, welded shut with up to a 3″ strap.
(6) ALL OCCUPANTS OF THE CAR MUST WEAR APPROVED HELMETS, LONG PANTS AND SHIRT.
(7) All cars must be swept clean; all glass, lights, trim, hazardous objects and spare tires must be removed. Stock gas tanks and batteries MUST be removed and relocated to the driver’s compartment and secured and covered by a rubber mat. (With the exception of compacts. If your gas tank is in front of your rear axle, you may leave it under the car.) No more than 2 automotive batteries may be used in a secure mount/box, and NO MILK CRATES.
(8) NO JEEPS, TRUCKS, HEARSES, EL CAMINOS/ RANCHEROS, IMPERIALS (SUB FRAMES INCLUDED) ARE ALLOWED! NO ’69 OR OLDER LINCOLNS.
(9) All vehicles must have a car number clearly displayed on the front doors and roof.
(10) NO PAINTING OR COATING OF FRAMES IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM. WE WILL LOAD YOU FOR THIS!
SUPER STOCK & YOUTH RULES
REMINDER: NO GRAY AREAS! IF YOU DON”T SEE IT, DON’T DO IT!
(1) SAFETY CAGE: 6-point cage ALLOWED, but side bars must stop at the front side of the wheel humps/back door seam. Halo bar not mandatory BUT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED, can only be mounted to cage and cannot be bolted or welded to roof. Halo must be vertical and cannot be used for anything but roof support and cannot be bolted or welded to roof. You are allowed 6 down tubes, to the side rails of the frame only; 3″x3″ max: Front two must be even with or behind front inner door seam. Rear two must be in front of rear body mounts in back seat on flat part of frame. Gas tank protector allowed, but no wider than 24″ W x 24” H, and may be touching sheet metal. No pushing back or bending cutting out sheet metal. Front cage bar must be 6″ above transmission tunnel and 6″ away from center of dash. Side rails no wider than 12″ and must be 6″ minimum above floor. Cage can be bolted welded or chained in, BUT MUST BE SAFE! NO KICKERS ANYWHERE!
(2) DRIVE TRAIN: Any motor and transmission may be used. You may run any rear end with bracing. Can have loaded control arms but must have pivot or working shackles. Slider drive shafts are allowed.
(3) TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER: You CAN run stock car crossmember, or up to 3x3x1/4” box tubing, welded or bolted in. For mounting crossmember, you are allowed one 6-inch long 2x2x1/4 piece of angle on each side. Frame Rail: No part of crossmember of angle cam come in contact with crush boxes.
(4) REAR SUSPENSION: You may use watts conversion brackets but must be 2 piece brackets, no 1 piece brackets. On leaf spring cars you may have 2 leaf spring clamps per side of car. Two on drivers side and two on passenger side with 2 inch x ¼ inch x 4 ½ inch long straps with 3/8 bolts.You are allowed two (2) chains; one per side around the frame and around the rear end to set your height. Other than that, EVERYTHING must be stock for the make and model of car. The rear end can be no lower than 16″. You may use two (2) pieces of 1” all-thread, instead of rear shocks, but must be vertical to Package Trex; nothing angled or attached to the frame.
(5) FRONT SUSPENSION: You are allowed (2) 2″x 6″x 1/8″ straps per side of car (2 on drivers side and 2 on passenger side) to hold your suspension where you want it; 3″ on the side of the frame & 3″ on the A-arm. DO NOT GET CREATIVE. You can run after market tie rods, must have stock size ends. You can switch a-arms and spindles if it is a direct bolt on with no modifications at all, or you will not run. No all-thread allowed on front shocks. The only trans brace allowed has to be attached to the transmission, only. Nothing to the engine and you must cut out trans tunnel and nothing added to stop movement.
(6) PROTECTORS: SBC to Mopar must not be solid plate on k-member (2) 6″ plates for mounting. MUST BE bolted to k-member, NOT welded. The only protectors allowed on the ending is the front plate, with no hood interference. Lower cradle and pulley protector sway bar must be cut out, if pulley protector can contact. No back plate, halo, or oil pan protector allowed.
(7) BUMPERS: You may run any bumper. You may load or plate and seam weld, OR you may run a homemade bumper. BUT THIS CANNOT exceed 6″x 6″ x 1/2″ tubing, with no more than a 4″ point over a 32″ spread. You may either hard nose and run a 4″x 5″x 1/4″ plate from bumper back, OR you run a stock shock and bracket for the car you are running in stock manner. Can run shock to factory shock mount in 4 spots “1” weld and same goes for factory mount on frame. Do not go overboard or you WILL cut. Maximum bumper height is 22″ from bottom of bumper.
(8) FRAME: ONLY WELDING ALLOWED ON FRAME is your bumper strap, and one pass weld 1/2″ wide on frame seam from firewall forward top and bottom seam. NO TILTING. You can shorten front frame but have to have 1 inch in front of core support mount in the factory position. No moving core support back or anything.
(9) REPAIRS: You are allowed 6 – 4″x 6″x 1/8″ to repair any damage; no manipulating the plate or making gussets. BUT MUST be visible damage. 4 in the front and 2 in the back of car on frame plate repair. Any other repairs MUST be approved by one of the head techs (Mike or Josh). Call and send pictures on rust repair.
(10) 03′ & NEWER FORDS: Must be 100% stock suspension. Aftermarket tie rods allowed, stock rack and pinion only.
(11) BODY: NO SEDAGONS/NO FRAME SHAPING
- GENERAL: Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in (6) places. You may weld doors solid with 3″X 1/8″ strap only. Body mounts may be changed, BUT must have 1″ spacers and NO bigger than 3/4″ bolts, with washers no bigger than 3″x 1/4 “. NO ADDING MOUNTS and must be inside frame like factory.
- TRUNK: NO ADDING MOUNTS. You are allowed (2) 3/4″ all thread through frame with washers no bigger than 6 inches and can have 4 ½ bolts washers no bigger than 2 inches or 4 spots 3x3x1/8 welding trunk lid down.
- HOOD: You may have 2 piece ¾ all thread up front through core support and frame core support spacers must stop on bottom side of core support. You can have 4 ½ bolts or 4 sections of angle iron to hold your hood down “3” long on angle iron. Must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Can have 10 3/8 bolts around header cutout.
- FENDERS: You are allowed (5) 3/8″ bolts washers no bigger than 1″ in each wheel opening.
- CORE SUPPORT: MUST REMAIN STOCK! You are allowed (2) 3/4″ all thread through factory core support mounts. DO NOT ADD ANYTHING ELSE! Spacers and or support stop bottom side of core support.
(12) WHEEL/TIRES: NO SPLIT RIMS, NO PADDLE TIRES (this means tires with cups). Full weld in centers are allowed.
(13) RADIATOR: Must remain in stock location. ONLY thing allowed in front of the radiator is the a/c condenser. You can use (4) 3/8″ bolts with washer, NO bigger than 2″, to fasten condenser.
(14) WINDOW BARS: You must have a minimum of one spot of No. 9 wire on each side from cowl to roof. You are allowed up to 2″x 2″x 1/4″ square round tubing or flat strap, 6″ on the cowl, 6″ on the roof. Back bar has to be mounted on speaker deck not on trunk lid and 6 inches on roof bolted or welded. THESE ARE FOR SAFETY ONLY! DO NOT TRY AND REINFORCE ANYTHING WITH THEM! They cannot come in contact with halo, or any other part of cage.
(15) NO. 9 WIRE: Nothing in front of the radiator. Four (4) strands up front of core support to bumper. Four (4) spots in back & must be sheet metal to sheet metal or sheet metal to bumper. You can weld a 3/4″ washer on sheet metal to run your No. 9 through.
COMPACTS BUILD RULES:
(WITH THE EXCEPTION OF 112″ WHEEL BASE
OR LESS, AND 4 OR 6-CYLINDER ENGINES)
REMINDER: NO GRAY AREAS!
IF YOU DON”T SEE IT, DON’T DO IT!
(1) SAFETY CAGE: 6-point max cage is recommended. Cage cannot extend any further back than the beginning of the wheel wells. Halo bar is not mandatory, is BUT IS STRONGLY recommended. Halo must be vertical, and cannot be used for anything but roof support. You are allowed six down tubes to the frame NO BIGGER THAN3″X3″; front two must be even with or behind front inner door seam. Middle two must be beside the seats for safety. Rear two must be in front of rear body mounts on flat part of frame. Gas tank protector allowed, No bigger than 24” W x 24” H. Must be vertical, with no big angles, and may be touching sheet metal. Front cage bar must be 6″ above transmission tunnel and 6″ away from center of dash. Side rails no wider than 12″, and must be 6″ minimum above floor. Cage can be bolted welded or chained in, BUT MUST BE SAFE! NO KICKERS ANYWHERE!
(2) DRIVE TRAIN: Any drivetrain is permitted. No protectors other than carb and header AT ALL.
(3) REAR SUSPENSION: NO LEAF CONVERSIONS! Leaf sprung cars must have working shackles IN STOCK LOCATION and must be FACTORY springs for that car. You are allowed four (4, 2 PER SIDE) 2″ wide 1/4″ thick x 4 1/2″ long leaf spring clamps no bigger than 3/8 bolts. Struts/Shocks/Control arms can be stuffed or plated, or can use 2″x2″ square tubing but must have pivot & travel. ALL-THREAD STRUTS NO BIGGER THAN 1″. You may chain the rear end around the packing tray or the humps. NO WELDING. Minimum rear bumper height 16″ to the bottom of the bumper. HUMP PLATES 22″x1/4″ THICK CENTERED MUST CONTOUR TO THE FRAME AND NO WIDER THAN FRAME ITSELF.
(4) FRONT SUSPENSION: Suspension MUST BE stock other than aftermarket ball joints & tie rods, NO switching brackets, A-arms MUST BE direct bolt on without welding modifications. You may have (2) 1/8″ x 2″ x 6″ straps per side on A-arms 3″ on outside of frame 3″ on A-arm. NO BALL JOINT STOPS, NO ADDED METAL. Front bumper maximum height to the bottom of the bumper 20″. (EXCEPTIONS on pre-ran bent cars.) On spindles you are allowed to add a piece of round or square stock to the back of the spindles between ball joints for support. You may also substitute your shocks/struts for 1″ all-thread.
(5) PROTECTORS: You can run your protectors (carb/header/rearends), BUT for the sole purpose of protecting your carb, headers and rear end from damage. They cannot be in contact with ANYTHING that will help hold them in place or help the car in any way, other than your motor mounts. They cannot be welded in solid. They must have a working motor mount, meaning there must be rubber somewhere in the mount where the motor or transmission can twist. NO RADIATOR PROTECTORS.
(6) BUMPERS: You may run ANY stock style car bumper, you may load it, weld it, plate it, BUT YOU CANNOT CHANGE THE FORMATION FROM STOCK. Homemade bumpers are allowed, BUT CANNOT exceed 6″x 6″ x 1/2″ tubing, with no more than a 4″ point over a 32″ spread. You can do one of two options; hard nose to the front frame with a 10″x 4″x 3/8″ strap from bumper back, OR be welded to the factory shocks. Factory shocks CANNOT be relocated. They can be cut off even at the frame and weld to both; NO OTHER COMBINATIONS. You may shorten front frame back to front side of body mount. You must be able to run your 1″ all-thread through the factory body mount holes WITHOUT manipulating it.
(7) FRAME: NO FRAME SHAPING! Pre-bending and tilting allowed. You can cut or notch rear frame rails, BUT CANNOT re-weld or plate your cuts. You are allowed one pass of 1/2″ wide weld on main frame seams ONLY. No welding of any brackets, or anything that’s not a main frame seam. Subframe only, not structure sheet metal (body) frame. NO SEAM WELDING SHEET METAL AT ALL.
(8) REPAIRS: For any frame repairs due to rust, you must cut out the damage, cut out the exact piece and butt weld back in, same thickness as frame.
- SHEET METAL: You must cut out damage and only overlap 1″ with same thickness of metal.
- BENDS: You are allowed up to six (6) 4″x 6″ x 1/4″ to repair, BUT MUST BE VISIBLE DAMAGE. Repair plates must be a minimum of 1″ apart, including welds.
- HOOD: Must have 4″ hole on each side of carburetor. You are allowed (10) 3/8″ bolts with the max of 1″ washer to bolt your hood skin back together. You are allowed 6 spots to tie your hood down, (2) 1″ all-thread that can go through the frame with no bigger than 3″ x 1/4″ thick washers on the frame. They cannot be welded in ANY The other 4 tie downs have to be sheet metal to sheet metal, 6″ angle bolted together, OR all thread with washers NO bigger than 6″x 1/4″. All thread cannot be attached to sheet metal more than 6″ TOTAL. No other welding on strut towers.
- TRUNK: You can concave/dish your trunk lid down, but must be 10″ off upper trunk floor above frame rails (NOT the low setting sump of the trunk). You are allowed two (2) 1″ all thread through the frame washers NO bigger than 6″x 1/4″. You may weld trunk seam 5 on 5 off with strap no wider than 3″x 1/8″.
- FENDERS: You are allowed (6) 3/8″ bolts with washers no bigger than 1″ per wheel opening. Creasing is allowed, but NO over lapping of metal.
- DOORS: Can be welded solid with 3″ wide x 1/8″ thick strap, BUT DO NOT load the door seams. You may plate driver and passenger front doors from seam to seam with 3/16″ or less. THIS IS FOR DRIVER AND RIDER SAFETY ONLY!
- CORE SUPPORT: Must remain stock, NO PLATING OR STUFFING. Spacers for all thread, if needed, cannot exceed 3″x 3″x 1/4″. You may weld the spacers to the front mount and top of frame ONLY, and can only go to bottom of core support where factory mount was NOT all the way to the hood.
- BODY MOUNTS: Body mounts may be removed and replaced with 3/4″ or smaller all-thread with washers no bigger than 3″ MUST be though original body mount holes WITHOUT any modifications.
(10) WHEEL/TIRES: NO SPLIT RIMS, NO PADDLE TIRES (Tires with cups). Full weld in centers are allowed, as well as bead locks or screws, BUT must be on inside bead ONLY.
(11) RADIATOR: Radiator must be in stock location, no reinforcing of core support. NO RADIATOR PROTECTORS!
(12) WINDOW BARS: You must have a minimum of one spot of No. 9 wire on each side from cowl to roof. You are allowed up to 2″x 2″x 1/4″ square round tubing or 3″ flat 3/8, 6″ on the cowl, 6″ on the roof. These MAY NOT come in contact with any protector at any time and nothing can go to strut tower. Back bar has to be mounted on speaker deck, not on trunk lid, and only 6 inch on the roof, welded or bolted. Nothing else can come within 6” of window bars, PERIOD!
(13) NO. 9 WIRE: Unlimited No. 9 from bumper to core support, and bumper to trunk lid. Wagons, you are allowed three (3) sets of three (3) wraps of No. 9 per window opening. You can add 3/4″ washers to the body for No. 9 to go through. NOTHING in front of radiator, No. 9 can’t be attached or come in contact with braces/motor/trans. You cannot tie No. 9 into the cage.
(14) PEDALS/BATTERY BOXES: Must be 2″ away from tranny tunnel and 2″ from front body mounts. MUST NOT BE USED TO REINFORCE CAR BY ANY MEANS. No bolting sub up to battery box or pedal setup, no extra sub frame bolts at all other than factory.
REMINDER: THERE ARE NO GRAY AREAS FOR ANY CLASSES! IF YOU DON’T SEE IT IN THE RULES, DON’T DO IT TO YOUR CAR!
GUT N’ GO RULES
(1) CARS MUST HAVE A WHEELBASE of 112” or less. You must have No. 9 from firewall to roof for safety purposes in two (2) spots; one in front of each person.
(2) BATTERY must be moved inside car and fastened tight.
(3) GAS TANK: If in front of rear axle, it can stay there. If behind the axle, move inside and fasten tight.
(4) SUSPENSION & BUMPERS: All stock. You are allowed (4) 3/8 bolts per side to bolt your compact bumper back on. NO older two-piece bumpers are allowed UNLESS your car came factory with one. You may fasten hood and trunk in four (4) spots with four (4) wraps of No. 9 or one (1) wrap of 5/16 chain. Two (2) twist-in spring spacers, per side, for sagging suspensions, only.
(5) CAGE: You can have a 4-point cage. NO GAS TANK PROTECTORS. If u choose not to have a 4-point cage, both doors must be wired, chained, or welded shut (If you choose to weld the doors, you can only weld the front two doors if you have a passenger. If not, you can only weld the driver’s door 2″×1/8″ strap) and something loaded inside the door. Examples include pipe, tubing, channel iron, or a piece of steel bolted to outside of door. THINK ABOUT SAFETY, GUYS AND GALS. A LOT OF RUST IN GUT N’ GO CARS MEANS IT’S A LOT SOFTER.
(6) TIRES can be changed to a snow type tire, or all terrain. NO BAR/LOADER TIRES.
(7) If you do more than what are included in these rules, your car is illegal. Cars MUST HAVE a 12×12 hole in hood for fire reasons.